RC car in winter: driving in snow, wet and cold – and cleaning up afterwards

Fresh snow is a special surface for an RC car: the model drifts, throws up snow and lands softly after a rollover. To keep the fun from becoming expensive, there are a few things to watch before, during and above all after the run.

Is my model fit for winter?

• Water resistance: snow melts on warm parts and turns into water. ESC, receiver and servo should therefore be water-resistant. The data sheet says so, often as “WP” or “waterproof”. The motor is often not waterproof, brushed motors almost never. A model without water protection is better kept on dry, salt-free ground in winter.

• Receiver box: check the seal of the lid. If it does not sit properly, moisture gets in.

• Vehicle type: monster trucks, short course trucks and crawlers with plenty of ground clearance cope best with snow. Low on-road models push the snow ahead of them and get stuck.

• Tyres: coarse, knobbly tyres grip best in snow.

Batteries in the cold

Cold noticeably reduces a LiPo’s performance: its internal resistance rises, the voltage sags more under load, and power and run time drop.

• Keep the batteries warm until you drive, for example in an insulated bag or in the heated car, and fit them just before you start.

• Expect shorter run times and stop as soon as the power fades.

• Never charge a cold battery. Let it warm up to room temperature first.

• For the winter break: bring packs to storage voltage and store them frost-free. Everything about it is in the guide Charging and storing LiPo batteries.

Driving in snow: what to watch out for

• Go easy on the throttle: deep snow puts a heavy load on motor, ESC and drivetrain. Avoid full-throttle starts from standstill and long full-throttle runs in deep snow.

• Check the temperature: in deep snow the drive works under high load. Measure the motor temperature after a few minutes. If it gets too warm, a smaller pinion helps (see the guide How to calculate RC gear ratio).

• Clear snow regularly: every few minutes, knock the snow out of suspension arms, hubs and driveshafts before it freezes solid.

• Plastic gets brittle: in frost, suspension arms, body mounts and bumpers break more easily. Skip the big jumps below zero.

• Avoid road salt: gritted paths and slush from the road are poison for bearings, screws, motor and electronics. Drive on untreated snow.

After the run: cleaning and drying your RC car

1. Take the battery out straight away, dry it and let it reach room temperature before you charge it or bring it to storage voltage.

2. Remove snow and water: knock off the worst and dry with a cloth; compressed air helps with bearings and gaps. No pressure washer, it forces water into bearings and electronics.

3. Let it dry slowly: remove the body and let the model dry in a warm room, but not on the radiator. Indoors, the cold model also mists up with condensation.

4. Lubricate bearings and joints: water can flush grease and oil out of the ball bearings, even if they still feel fine. A drop of bearing oil or a lubricant such as DryFluid RC Cars protects against rust and wear.

5. Check metal parts: look for rust on screws, driveshafts, pinion and bearings, and lightly oil or replace them if needed.

6. Check connectors and wires: look for corrosion on battery connectors and chafing on wires.

Cleaning an RC car: is water allowed?

If the manufacturer states that the electronics are water-resistant, you can clean the model carefully: with a little water, a soft brush and a damp cloth, never with a pressure washer. Take the battery out first, do not spray the electronics directly and keep water away from the motor. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Afterwards, dry everything thoroughly and lubricate the bearings. After a run on salty ground this is even necessary, because salt residue makes metal parts rust.

Models without water protection should only be cleaned dry. That is also how to proceed all year round after runs in dust, sand or mud: knock off the coarse dirt, remove the rest from the drivetrain, suspension arms and cooling fins with a brush and compressed air, and wipe off what remains with a slightly damp cloth. Sand between pinion and spur gear wears the teeth quickly, so take a close look there.

Taking a winter break? How to store your model

• Clean and dry the model thoroughly and lubricate the bearings.

• Bring all batteries to storage voltage and store them frost-free.

• Put the model on a stand so the tyres do not get flat spots.

• Take the batteries out of the transmitter so they cannot leak.

• Use the time for maintenance and upgrades: change shock oil, replace worn parts. You will find the right parts with the spare-parts finder.